The history and lifestyle of the Brits are among my favorite curiosities. From cucumber sandwiches and Alice in Wonderland tea parties to the royal family and Elizabethan theatre, English culture utterly fascinates me.
This past September I visited London for the first time. My trip was highly-anticipated, as it was postponed and then rescheduled because of the pandemic.
In an unexpected twist of fate, Queen Elizabeth II died halfway through our vacation. It was surreal to witness this historic moment in time. Tributes to her were everywhere - from bus stops to real estate windows, and I even got to experience the pageantry at the Royal Exchange when they proclaimed Charles king with “God Save the King” and cheers of “hip hip hooray.”
People have been asking me for our London itinerary and recommendations ever since, so I thought I would post it here on the blog as a reference.
Here are the highlights from this trip of a lifetime:
CHURCHES
Holy Trinity Church - Known as Shakespeare’s Church, the Bard was baptized and buried here in Stratford-upon-Avon. I LOVED this church. It’s beautifully set on the water and has a small graveyard outside. I wasn’t expecting it to be so ornate inside - it’s gorgeous.
St. Paul’s Cathedral - St. Paul was also closed to tourism after the queen’s passing, and it was remarkable to be there in such solitude and quiet. This church is massive! There are two songs I adore that refer to St. Paul’s - the Linda Eder Christmas song “The Bells of Saint Paul” and “Feed the Birds” from Mary Poppins. To be outside hearing the bells and seeing the birds in this sacred location was a dream come true!
Westminster Abbey - When the queen died, Westminster Abbey was also closed, but it stayed open for prayer - no cameras allowed. Not many people realized this, and I went inside with hardly anyone there. What a once-in-a-lifetime experience. There was a tribute to the queen with her picture and candles, as well as a book to write notes of condolence.
St. Clement Danes Church - I stumbled upon this little church by accident. It’s the church of the Royal Air Force and has many artifacts to look at inside, as well as a World War II memorial. If you need gifts, I purchased some beautiful men’s ties here.
DAY TRIPS
Hampton Court - Home of Henry VIII, this palace is like a mini-Versaille. Be sure to wander the expansive gardens and peek inside the greenhouse to see the world’s largest grapevine. We happened to be visiting the day they were offering Requiem Masses for Queen Elizabeth in the chapel. While our train schedule didn’t allow me to stay for the service with choir, it was incredible to attend church in an Historic Royal Palace on the weekend of the queen’s passing. It’s close enough to London that you can leave in the morning and get back early enough for dinner or a show in the city.
Stratford-Upon-Avon - Home of Shakespeare’s Birthplace, Holy Trinity Church, the RSC, and more, this adorable town is a must-see. It’s doable in a day, though I would prefer to stay overnight next time.
MUSEUMS
The Victoria and Albert (V&A) Museum - They had a terrific Beatrix Potter exhibit while we were there. Take a moment to sit in the beautiful courtyard to have lunch.
The National Gallery - Wow, wow, wow! I almost didn’t make it here, and I’m so glad I squeezed it in. This is one of the best art museums I’ve ever seen. They have an extraordinary amount of major works - think Monet, van Gogh, Seurat, Picasso, Rembrandt.
The Tate Modern - Modern art isn’t my favorite, and I found the museum quite stark. That said, if you enjoy modern art, then definitely stop by. We saw a provocative exhibit by artist and activist Lubaina Himid. Personally, I was more interested in her philosophy behind the art than in the art itself, but it was interesting to expand my horizons and explore something new.
The Dickens Museum - This museum is a bit out of the way, but, if you love Charles Dickens’ writings, then it’s worth the trip. It was so cool to see his writing desk and the chair where he wrote Oliver Twist.
MUSIC and THEATRE
& Juliet - This West End take on Shakespeare’s Romeo & Juliet features a pop soundtrack full of Max Martin tunes (think Britney Spears, Katy Perry, the Backstreet Boys, and more.) I wasn’t expecting more than a fluffy-good time, but was blown away by the craftful storytelling - one of the best jukebox musicals I’ve ever seen.
The Globe - This is the reconstruction of Shakespeare’s Globe in London. While we didn’t get to see a show here, we did take the tour, which I HIGHLY recommend. While on tour, we saw actors warm up, do their fight call, and rehearse a musical number.
The Troubadour - This iconic hole-in-the-wall hosts a great spot for intimate jazz in its cozy basement. The walls are lined with saintly musicians (you just have to see it), and the food was surprisingly delicious!
The National Theatre - This production of Shakespeare’s Much Ado About Nothing was one of the best plays I’ve ever seen. It was completely sold out, so be sure to get your tickets early for this theatre company.
The Royal Opera House - Home of The Royal Opera, The Royal Ballet, and the Orchestra of the Royal Opera House, this Covent Garden-area theatre is a treat to tour (and peruse the gift shop!) They also have delicious food in the lobby, if you’re in need of a quick bite. Next time, I definitely want to see a show here.
The Royal Shakespeare Company (RSC) - We saw Shakespeare’s All’s Well That Ends Well, and, while it’s not my favorite play, there is something completely magical about seeing Shakespearean theatre in Stratford-upon Avon.
Six - My Broadway tickets were cancelled because of the pandemic, so it was extra-special to finally see this show in London - on the same day that we visited Hampton Court, no less! The lyrics are so creative.
SIGHTSEEING
Abbey Road - Walk across the street like the Beatles, learn the recording history on the plaques outside, and grab some fun souvenirs in the gift shop.
Borough Market - Enjoy a snack or lunch in this giant outdoor food market. I got some delicious wild mushroom risotto made fresh before my eyes, and picked up a jar of pistachio cream imported from Italy.
Buckingham Palace - Touring the palace was the only thing on our itinerary that we didn’t get to do, as our tickets were for the morning after the queen died and it was closed to visitors for the remainder of our trip. Still, I went to the grounds twice - once in the morning and once in the evening to place flowers. The gifts, the death notice, the media, the unity and reverent gratitude of the public - it was a once-in-a-lifetime experience that still brings tears to my eyes and I will never forget.
Hyde Park - This famous park is worth seeing for its beautiful gardens and statues.
Kensington Gardens - While we didn’t have time to tour the palace, walking the vast grounds was so enjoyable and relaxing. Be sure to get pictures of the palace from behind and take pictures with the swans.
The London Eye - We didn’t ride the giant Ferris wheel, but it’s a great landmark to include in the background of pictures.
The Milestone Hotel - I sipped a cocktail in this Kensington hotel the night before we left. This boutique hotel reminds me of The Carlyle in New York and gives off major Ralph Lauren vibes in its tiny, equestrian-themed bar. The service was impeccable, and, if I could afford it, this is the only place I would want to stay. It is true, under-the-radar luxury.
Platform 9 3/4 - I somehow missed the Harry Potter train growing up, but it was still really fun to get my picture taken here and to go shopping in the gift shop.
The Shard - Enjoy a panoramic view of London from the highest viewing spot in the city.
St. Pancras Renaissance London Hotel - Run by Marriot International, you just have to see it. It’s breathtaking.
Tower Bridge - Get a ticket to climb the bridge and tour inside or simply walk across it.
The Tower of London - This is a MUST. I wish I had more time to explore this medieval fortress. See everything from the execution chamber to the royal jewels. We happened to be there when they were doing a gun (cannon) salute for King Charles the morning he was proclaimed King!
TEA
Fortnum & Mason - Known as the Tiffany of Tea, Fortnum & Mason was founded in 1707. With robin blue boxes and pictures of Audrey Hepburn lining the walls, we had a luxurious tea complete with a live pianist and a glass of special Jubilee champagne. I then spent several hours shopping its many floors and even shipped a box of goodies home.
Sketch - This trendy spot for afternoon tea had delicious food and impeccable service. A string trio played Bridgerton-esque tunes. It was pricey, but well worth the expense.
SHOPPING
Cath Kidston - I found out about this place via Instagram, and it quickly became a favorite. Its whimsical, limited-edition patterns are featured in everything from pajamas to kitchenware to hand lotions.
Covent Garden - In addition to getting a mandatory Eliza Doolittle picture outside of the opera house or with the flower carts, this is a happening spot, and there are great little markets to browse. My favorite stand is The Duchess of Candles, which sells candles in antique teacups for very reasonable prices.
Fortnum & Mason - I mentioned it with the tea salons, but this place deserves its own shopping mention. I’m OBSESSED! From antique silverware to gourmet groceries, this place has it all. The packaging is gorgeous and the flat-rate shipping made it a no-brainer to stock up. (Alas, you can’t ship anything with alcohol, but you can’t ship the delicious sparkling teas.) If I had to lock myself in a store, it would be this one (and, let’s be honest, I was there for so long that I basically DID lock myself in.) I can’t wait to go back!
Harrod’s - This world-famous department store is massive, utterly overwhelming, and worth visiting. Be sure to check out the food court (pistachio gnocchi from the pasta bar was a highlight) and the downstairs gift shop.
Hatchard’s - A bookworm’s dream, this bookstore was a joy to get lost in. Hatchard’s, Fortnum & Mason, and Cath Kidston are all in a row in Picadilly, so I definitely recommend checking out this block for shopping.
Liberty - This beautiful tudor-style department store was much more my style. It’s also massive, though nowhere near as overwhelming as Harrod’s. They are known for their signature fabrics and sell everything from custom curtains to cotton-covered writing journals.
